I never tried SliceTruck while it was in its mobile form. They came by my work a couple of years ago (I think), but from what I was told by coworkers, the pizzas were somewhat lackluster, and it was questionable whether they were being made on-site (just random speculations from third-party observers though). I never really held these opinions against the truck, but I wasn’t exactly thrilled when I heard about their brick-and-mortar opening in the newly-anointed food mecca known as Little Osaka (Sawtelle) earlier this year. But I was craving pizza one day, and was too lazy to go out for it. So I neglected my guilty pleasure of ordering Papa John’s and tried a real pizza for once.
While I’m not exactly raving about the place, I do like SliceTruck enough to have ordered from them on multiple occasions. I believe they fashion themselves as a version of New York’s famed Di Fara, with a strong emphasis on the quality of their ingredients (not that I know much about pizza though). And while they proudly tout their dough and the use of DOP San Marzanos, the thin crust of their regular and hot garlic (with lots of garlic and chili flakes/oil) doesn’t exactly maintain a crisp texture. It gets a bit chewy/soggy, so best not to add any extra toppings, if any. But there is plenty of care going into these pizzas – I especially like the fresh basil and shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano that are used.
Between the regular and the hot garlic versions, I actually prefer the latter. The garlic is plenty and intense, but I love garlic, so that’s fine with me. From a personal perspective, what is keeping SliceTruck from getting over the proverbial hump is going the distance. By that, I mean that the flavors are good, but don’t exactly pop, and that the crust is good, but kind of in-between texture-wise. Keep in mind that I’m just a novice when it comes to pizzas, but that’s how I feel. Still, it’s a good pizza, one I’m more than glad to order from time to time (until Mozza or Vito’s is within neighborhood distance). Oh, I also tried the grandma pizza. Nice crust from the pan, but a bit too dense and doughy for me.
Chris Hei grade: B
2012 Sawtelle Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90025