I had a wonderful dinner my first time at Waterloo & City last August, so it’s a bit surprising that I hadn’t been back since (before last Friday). While planning a dinner to catch up with Alex and Danno, Alex asked if we can go to a gastropub, and immediately Waterloo & City came to mind. Thank you for suggesting a gastropub, Alex, or else who knows how much longer it would’ve taken for me to make a return visit. And boy, had it been way too long…
House Made and Imported Charcuterie – Prince ($28 + $10)
Smoked Salmon Terrine, Fried Egg, Sauce Gribiche
Chicken Liver & Foie Gras Mousse
Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Armagnac Prunes, Brioche (+$10)
Rabbit & Pistachio Terrine, Piccalilli, Brioche
Cured Meats Selection, Cornichons, Pickled Onions
Last last time, my group of three started with the Prince size chacuterie platter. And like last time, it was more than enough to satisfy the party. This time around, we had: the smoked salmon terrine, the chicken liver & foie gras mousse, the foie gras, the rabbit & pistachio terrine, and the cured meats selection. I had the second, third, and fifth varieties on the first visit. The chicken liver & foie gras mousse, this time presented in a jar (as opposed to being a cut of terrine the last time) was just as good as I remembered; went really well with the accompanying (sweet potato?) jam and brioche. The rabbit & pistachio terrine was actually an improvement; the terrine wasn’t as tough, and the pistachio flavor was a bit more pronounced. The quality and variety of the cured meats was great as well. I ate lots of the beef fat drippings with the meats (fatty heaven w/ a nice horseradish kick).
Manchester Quail Farce w/ Duck, Wild Mushrooms, Fava Beans, Jus ($14)
The two new types of house-made chacuterie varieties that I tried this time around were good as well. The smoked salmon terrine was nice, but I’m not too crazy about the potato filler within the terrine. But the standout (next to the mousse) was the foie gras; presented in a jar, it was just straight-up foie in all its fatty glory (not in terrine form). Well worth the extra $10 to add to the Prince selection. By the way, while they’re always nice in refilling the accompanying brioche, I usually like to try the pates/terrines with their variety of house-baked breads as well. Delicious! Overall, I believe that Waterloo & City has the best chacuterie platter in Los Angeles.
Indian Butter Chicken Pizza, Murgh Makahni Sauce, Mozzarella ($14)
Beside the gigantic platter, we split an appetizer and a pizza. The appetizer was a special: the Manchester quail farce (stuffed) w/ duck pate. There was a wonderful jus with the quail, and the sauteed mushrooms and fava beans were nice complements. Alex, seeing brown, had to get the Indian-style pizza. It was a pleasant surprise; not a traditional pizza by any sense (as is the case with just about all of their pizzas – think more ethnic versions along the lines of CPK pizzas), but flavors were on point, and the raita-esque sauce served as a good balance. For dessert, the sticky toffee pudding was a must-order. As good as I remembered it.
Sticky Toffee Pudding, Milk Ice Cream, Salted Caramel ($9)
I actually thought that this meal at Waterloo & City was better than my first one, although when I compared them side-by-side, they seem fairly identical. Maybe I just miss this type of food, or maybe it has taken me this long to truly appreciate the intricacies of a top-notch gastropub. It has the essence of a traditional one, but incorporates other cuisines and techniques very successfully. Credit to Chef Collins. My next meal here will be much, much sooner.
Chris Hei grade: A-
Waterloo & City
12517 Washington Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90066